Flush with prize money from GQ and the CFDA, Robert Geller staged an elegant show that gave full expression to his vision of rogue aristocracy. Geller found inspiration in Vienna at the turn of the last century. Boning up on history is a fine thing, but a fashion collection is better served if it’s styled for the present day. Costumey overaccessorizing was an unfortunate distraction from the collection’s strengths: tailored outerwear, dramatic knitwear and regal colors. Geller’s coats and jackets have always featured distinctive details, and this season he set the buttons of officer jackets on an S shape, following the curves of the overlapping front panels. That asymmetry spilled into button-front shirts as well. Dip-dyed shirts called extra attention to the palette of rose, purple and teal. Geller showed more knitwear than ever before, extravagantly layering the grandly proportioned pieces. Overall he continues to show great promise.




