With his first men’s show, Richard Chai established a distinctive handwriting. Boiled wools and muted plaids in washed cotton had an outdoorsy flavor, but Chai’s fresh blend of sharp tailoring and rugged style was equally perfect for city or country. 

 

Reverse seams subtly highlighted the tailoring, and the designer’s placement of zippers as embellishment throughout the collection was masterfully controlled. His sense of volume and proportion made every model look elongated and powerful. The utilitarian cut of the trousers, with a slightly dropped crotch, also felt refreshingly masculine, especially when tucked into a heavy boot. Textured cashmere cardigans and long johns proved Chai’s background in knitwear. But above all, he proved that fashion sense and manliness can go hand in hand.