In men’s wear, Marcus Wainwright and David Neville took a decisively modern turn, moving away from the usual historic and pop-culture references. The highly tailored collection had a pleasing sobriety as well as a dignified warrior theme. Embracing the exoticism of a new “ninja” pant silhouette — voluminous and cinched at the knees and ankles — was a risk that paid off. Silver suits, chain mail and officer jackets with crested buttons also lent the men a fighting spirit.

 

In women’s, fencing or cutaway coats were layered with chunky knits and chain mail that offered a great balance to leggings or new kilt skirts, both accented with leather.