Paul Smith always stands for color, pattern and cheek; but since so much of his tailored clothing this season was cut from conservative fabrics with gray or brown backgrounds, what was under the jacket became the statement maker. The first few shirts resembled cycling jerseys. Those gave way to tailored waistcoats, sweaters in a cheerful colors or graphic designs, and quilted nylon vests. Tailored jackets and coats bore the signature pieced lapels and closely spaced rows of buttons, but also featured waist latches so they didn’t have to be buttoned up. The trousers were tailored as narrowly as possible without clinging. Sportswear came in corduroys, stonewashed black denim and lots of tartan, especially Black Watch. Foulard print scarves were layered for a bohemian effect. Although the message was confusing, the levity was intact.