Van Assche’s youth-inspired fashions took an angsty, brooding turn for fall with loose layers, gathered and bloused with complicated, dangling straps and strings. High-top sneakers, a signature of the Belgian designer, featured extended leather linings that folded over ankle bindings. The effect, in combination with long johns, cloaks and tunic-length shirts, was a silhouette evoking Robin Hood, but not exactly modern man.