Among 20,000 candles and an acre of crystal shards and red glitter, John Galliano showed his latest extravaganza – and a lovingly researched and expertly detailed collection. The elaborate looks were organized around a cast of witty characters related to 18th century decadence, weaving a spell of desirability around Galliano’s commercial fare. First, armed revolutionaries stormed out in tricornes and dramatic, double-breasted, Revere collar coats, some embroidered with gold oak leaves. Layers of toile de jouy and logo-printed jersey followed, all oversized and streetwise. Then Pan, the half-man, half-goat appeared, half-dressed in couture-like feathered pants, torso bare and dusted. Galliano quickly gave these goat men something decent to wear: handsome shearlings and washed leather jackets. For the obligatory underwear portion of the show, barristers traipsed by in updated briefs, white dress shirts, pinstriped waistcoats and bits of lacy lingerie. Ribaldry, indeed. Finally, Beau Brummel-inspired dandies modeled dramatic formalwear including lushly embroidered coats and a silk shirt with an attached cape. The whole spectacle was a feast for the eyes.
