Backstage before his show, designer Ennio Capasa said fashion needs to scale back. “People don’t have a need for excess. We need to re-think the system, the way men dress and the real value of the clothes,” he mused. “This season my point of view is timeless and sober.” And how. Given wacky punk styling and severe silhouettes in the past, Capasa’s new restraint was startling – and appealing. Romantic and relaxed double-breasted suits and knits in tonal gradients of blues and grays added up to a quietly self-assured collection.