Designers galore say they’re gravitating towards the real man and his real needs this season – but Tomas Maier has been on that wave length for some time. His experience was plain as he parlayed his understated sensibility into a winning line up of comforting and lived-in tailoring in the house’s signature earthy tones. “It’s an unusual time, obviously, and we thought very carefully about what it is our customer wants and needs right now,” Maier said in the show notes. “I think a certain gentleness is also right.” The designer led his customer from last season’s everyday jacket and roomy trousers to a slimmer silhouette with blazers and coats supple as cardigans. A calfskin blouson in a muted truffle tone had cashmere sleeves, while a deerskin trench was given a cozy touch with a knitted collar. Maier continued to play on a faux layering riff on lapels and jacket hems in an array of traditional fabrics such as herringbone, houndstooth and flannel. “Soft and unassuming, but also confident and timeless,” is how Maier describes the attitude next season. His finale of milky toned cashmere velvet blazers worn with ivory cotton trousers were soothing and reassuring, as if to say there is a light at the end of the tunnel.