So much has happened since Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren’s last Viktor & Rolf show (fall 2008) that one had to wonder if they would return to the runway in their typical thematic, theatrical fashion. The 12 Greco-Roman-style statues positioned on the stage answered that question, while illustrating Horsting and Snoeren’s creative reaction to the current state of affairs. “We felt the need for stability,” said Snoeren. “We felt inspired by the serenity of statues.”

 

From the onset, Horsting and Snoeren captured a sense of calm, sending out slow-paced models, their faces painted white like modern marble busts, in quiet colors — gray, brown, black and blush. Key to the look were structured coats and silk marble prints inspired by the stone from which the statues were carved. But like true fashion designers, Horsting and Snoeren paid as much attention to what the figures wore. Thus, their gently draped robes were wittily reimagined as tromp l’oeil seams on the collar of a dress, sculptural tiers sewn flat on tailored pieces and as tightly ruched curtainlike drapery done all over jackets, pants and dresses. 

 

Much of it worked beautifully, such as the kaleidoscope dresses trimmed with a swish of white draped silk, and the excellent handbags fashioned out of what looked to be plastered swags. Elsewhere things were thought-provoking: for example, the colorful dresses partially covered with white flocking to suggest a statue coming to life. And if not everything was a work of art, namely the stiff skirts meant to look like cut stone, it was great to see the designers handle an offbeat theme with substance and style.