Scaling back can be positive, as Sonia Rykiel demonstrated by foregoing her habitual larger venue to show in the intimate setting of her St. Germain shop. It was a homecoming of sorts. Rykiel, who has now passed the design baton on to creative director Gabrielle Greiss, sat in the front row next to French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld. But even if she was a spectator, the spirit of the quirky show was indelibly Rykiel. Models ambled through the shop reciting pithy phrases, “I’m from St. Germain,” and “I’m a red fox,” and so on, as they skipped merrily along. The clothes, too, had a feeling of nonchalance and sexy fun. There were velvet trouser ensembles, Lurex knit confections, and floaty dresses, all imbued with Rykiel’s Left Bank ethos, but a bit younger and funkier, thanks to Greiss. Slouchy trousers played off a masculine-feminine theme, while black beading on dresses and tops added a bit of artsy glamour. By the end, the audience was won over. Rykiel was pulled from her chair and guided to an exit, where she waved enthusiastically to the departing crowd before disappearing backstage.



