I do what I do. That favorite credo of Ralph Lauren is both respected industrywide, because what he’s done over the past 40-plus years is pretty terrific, and spoofed on occasion, because if you can’t knock a guy when he’s up, you’re probably in the wrong industry. On Friday morning, the designer proved once again why the respect will always trump the teasing. This was Lauren at his absolute best — which is to say, fabulous.

 

 

Lauren’s models exited via a grand archway, strolling beneath the glow of three massive crystal chandeliers. The first out wore spare black, the better to highlight the designer’s impressive new watches. But then the palette transitioned to light — a glorious mélange of pale grays, silvers, taupes and ivories, the tweeds flecked with pastels. Often rooted in the mannish tailoring Lauren loves, the day clothes were anchored by tony tweeds, including a pair of fabulous patchwork toppers. Yet the takeaway was plenty feminine, its mood derived via rhinestone buttons, scarves wrapped in imprecise fluffs at the neck and from an assortment of dusty pink sweaters. As for the outerwear — amazing, whether in a simple herringbone coat or a lavishly embroidered hooded shearling.

 

For evening, Lauren conjured a range of refined types: ballerina, deb, au courant bright young thing, girls united in their high-brow opulence. Throughout, he kept the embellishment considerable. Preshow, he had cited a mood of romantic luxury. True enough, as far as it went. But on the last day of this most peculiar New York season, his show seemed like something more than a lineup of breathtaking clothes. Consciously or otherwise, it delivered to the American industry a dazzling visual pep talk from its most powerful designer, someone who has been through booms, busts and Wall Street woes before and has always come out more than fine on the other side. Lauren’s message, loud and clear: Do what you do, the best you can, no matter what. He knows what he’s talking about.