“I wanted to play up the layers and textures that I usually work with, but add a darker edge,” Monique Lhuillier said of her 12-piece lineup (dresses, of course, plus one sharp gray suit trimmed in horsehair). Lhuillier, who styled for that edgy impact with shredded tights worn as leotards, piled on the embellishments, from organza florets to embroidered lace over ombré tulle, to whimsical effect. But the real treat was the jersey numbers: two black columns with sexy cutouts and a draped bordeaux silk jersey gown with a black sash. While the workmanship of Lhuillier’s party dresses was evident, as with the corsetry peeking out from a few sheer cocktail dresses, the less structured gowns proved Lhuillier’s versatility for buyers in these party-light times.