Where in the world is Martin Margiela? Judging from the house’s fall collection, the designer has finally left the building. Because despite a decent outing, the intellectual punch his shows usually deliver was lacking. By the time the last models stormed the runway in filmy polka-dot tulle get-ups, it had some in the audience wondering, that’s it?
    There were traces of Margiela’s vocabulary, as in the first model out. She wore nude leggings, crossed her arms to cover bare breasts and sported clear plastic shoulder pads, as if to stake claim on fashion’s current shoulder fixation, which began here. In fact, illusion was the main course served throughout. Long-sleeved leather dresses, for instance, disappeared at back to reveal the model’s bra and briefs or nude tights. Accessories continued in the same vein, like the trompe l’oeil wedge-sandal hybrids. Then there was the geometry motif — angled hems, split level layering, cutouts — inspired by flights of stairs, a point hammered home by the zigzag catwalk with steps at every turn. Rounding out the collection were trenches with skin-exposing slashes, hooded catsuits, dropped-crotch pants and a curious puffy cloud costume. It was a lot of ideas to cram into one show, but this time, it all came up short.