The economy has everyone on alert. After flexing her prowess in wovens last season, Koi Suwannagate returned to knitwear, with a lineup of 15 gorgeous hand-crafted looks. (A lone silk gown was a last-minute addition.) Suwannagate honed in on her favorite themes with sculpted rosettes aplenty on capes, vests and sweaters, but she tempered the frou with a subtle graphic edge, inspired by Swiss artist Sophie Taeuber-Arp. Take, for instance, the quilted geometric patterns on a plush cashmere jacket. The designer added a mannish vibe as well in a series of boyfriend cardis with a strong shoulder emphasis and some terrific trouser leggings, proving she’s capable of more than just the romantic reverie. Soon, we might even see another side — Suwannagate let slip that she’s in talks to do a private label for another company. “And it won’t be one season,” she noted. “It’ll be long-term.”