Macdonald has been upping his game ever since his new backer Jamey Hargreaves arrived last year and began shaking up the company’s strategies. Macdonald is working with three new Italian factories that are turning out higher-grade collections; he’s turned to specialty studios like Hurel in Paris for his embroideries; and he’s preparing to move his headquarters from a scruffy patch of north London to Mayfair. The show was unapologetically luxurious – and why not? Macdonald says his rich clients, some of them Russian, are still spending. There was leather and fur galore, including coats crafted from soft, tumbled ostrich skin; midnight blue shaved weasel; or overdyed chinchilla. Jackets came in distressed pony skin with astrakhan collars. His evening dresses were glam, with padded, pointed shoulders and embellishments resembling shards of glass. Knits – a Macdonald specialty – also made an appearance, either chunky or delicate as cobwebs.