With show notes that referenced the use of karate pleats, “a design project created in collaboration with karate masters,” to allow for movement in Dai Fujiwara’s collection for Issey Miyake, you could only hope that a demonstration was in store. It was indeed, as four apparent black belts, including a pair of identical twins, clad in Fujiwara’s crinkled, red and gray cropped pants and jackets performed choreographed kicks at the beginning, middle and end of the show. It was fun and energetic. And their precise movements illustrated the functionality of the clothes, which, according to the program, was a result of a special weaving technology.
That may well be true, but so was the fact that these were already among the simplest outfits in the collection, which was otherwise full of great takes on the house’s artful and architectural fare.
Fujiwara crafted quite a range, from the opening looks of easy cuffed pants and jackets to the more streetwise styles, such as squiggly mesh tops worn over sporty neon pieces. Two of the strongest motifs honored Miyake’s geometric tradition in very different ways. First, graphic kaleidoscope prints in red and black and gray and white emblazoned on silk dresses, structured coats and pants that were pleated and pressed into curves, added edge, but not aggressively. And last, the diaphanous finale consisted of tops, skirts and dresses made from sheer squares that were fastened together so the edges fell like the pages of a book. They were soft and beautiful — if not appropriate for the martial arts.



