Giles Deacon thumbed through his old sketchbooks and blew the dust off his student designs in order to recapture the playfulness of art college. And that’s just what he delivered for Giles — a subversive kid’s take on fashion, with all the punk elements the designer loves: There were little gray suits with safety-pin borders; felted-wool shifts pricked with spikes and sparkly studs; skinny strapless dresses with zippers, and thigh-high Christian Louboutin boots. And while there may have been a whole lot of menacing hardware, there was also a remarkable lightness to the fabrics and finishes. Dresses — some in printed silk twill — were unlined and laser-cut; rigid A-line miniskirts were crafted from duchesse satin fused with lightweight foam, and featherweight cashmere was cut into T-shirts and pants. As in past seasons, Deacon also toyed with proportions, sending out puffer jackets straight from the closet of Mrs. Michelin, body-hugging jersey gowns for evening and fluffy Mongolian lamb coats and dresses. An A+ project.



