Smart, simplified and decidedly lighthearted. That’s the mood Giorgio Armani has embraced of late at Emporio Armani, with strong results. The new freshness, which settled in last season when the designer worked a subtle East-meets-West motif, here took a turn toward snappy, feminine sportif. 

 

Armani built upon a few key concepts: a flattering, mostly dark palette; clean tailoring and short silhouettes, the legs, and the collection’s youthful tone, emphasized via knee socks or sparkly anklets worn over sheer dark hose.  

 

The resulting charm was rendered with considerable range, from all-out girlishness to relaxed sophistication, and throughout, the hits were many. Terrific coats came sleek and tailored or with a bold ruffle cascade; pleated shorts worked both the day and night shifts; dresses ranged from a Lolita-worthy velvet baby doll to curvy, grown-up sheaths. When Armani went decorative, it was with a spill of rosettes, a splashy floral print or a bejeweled chain, draped at the hip like a pocket watch. Savvy touches indeed, heightening the interest of a lineup of distinctive investment clothes.