What a difference six months can make. Last time around, the 20-year-old label paid homage to streetwear decadence; for fall, DKNY was “back to business,” according to Donna Karan. “It has optimism, but, at the same time, there’s a new reality, and I had a modern girl in mind,” Karan said of her collection, which focused on structured and straightforward suits (that girl, after all, has an office to go to). To wit, there was a slim red and gray houndstooth jacket and skirt, and a series of boxy, stretch wool jackets in gray and cerise. Hemlines dropped below the knee on pencil skirts, done in cozy tweed and flannel. The toppers, however, were the highlight: from jaunty capes and bomber jackets to a superb taupe mohair car coat, these pieces possessed a timeless quality. And there was sexier and versatile fare, too, as with a series of wool jersey wrap dresses with sweetheart necklines and a cool leopard-print minidress.



