It’s a sign of the times: Christian Lacroix staging his show at a small 3rd-arrondissement parking garage. The change of venue actually worked in his favor, because it gave his collection a fresh, more intimate feeling. But a show space only goes so far in heightening the runway experience; it’s the clothes that truly sing, and this fall, Lacroix sent out a beauty of a lineup.

The designer scaled back on his fantastical medley of motifs and flourishes, which gave his clothes an air of savvy control and sophistication. Take, for instance, the opening numbers: a navy box trench with oversize buttons and lapels, followed by a similarly proportioned overcoat, cut in tweed. The looks were confident in their simplicity, and showed that Lacroix is as comfortable with tailored goods as he is with the fluff stuff. In fact, fall was all about a nimble dance between the two: folding in masculine silhouettes with romantic fare, structure with gentility. The daywear stood out, from outerwear such as an eclectically textured peacoat in peacock blues to pantsuits with shaped and peplumed jackets topping flared trousers with deep cuffs. The softer, feminine moments came in the lovely draped blouses and dresses as well as ample lace usage. Even the jewelry, in an about-face from couture, adhered to the less-is-more strategy: no earrings or rings, just a single agate floral brooch or chain-link necklace punching things up. This was Lacroix in control — no overload this season, just fantastic French fashion.