If Ralph Rucci’s clothes aren’t for everyone — and they’re not intended to be — they go above and beyond to satisfy his loyal clients and their very high standards. That said, for fall, and without compromising on quality, Rucci seemed to be making an effort to create more approachable versions of his styles, with appealing results.

 

His trademarks — exotic skins, braided leathers and Asian references — were all there, but instead of piling them on in one complicated look after another, Rucci toned down the grandeur, showing sparingly decorated, relatively simple silhouettes. Rich, double-faced cashmere and wool were cut into sophisticated suits and dresses, some trimmed with patent leather or spliced with curving chiffon inserts — just one of his classic, geometric effects done with a lighter hand. Others, such as a smart, graphic black-and-white shift, channeled a Mod-ish mood.

 

While Rucci’s wool jersey dresses, always understated, were abundant, the collection wasn’t all austere. The designer also served up fabulous furs, as in sable sewn onto a silk tulle coat, and a pink-and-black collage suit that added a splash of color to the largely black and brown lineup. As for evening — it too felt more relaxed thanks to filmy silk dresses, flounced at the waist or trailing with feathers. Of course, Rucci couldn’t resist his signature grand gesture — the photo-printed evening dress. Here, his subjects were 7th-century Khmer statues, their images emblazoned on gowns. A high-minded motif to be sure, but one that keeps Rucci clients calling.