Has anyone ever seen Carolina Herrera with a hair out of place or less than impeccably turned out? As a pillar of good taste and proper attire, she believes women should make the effort, a mantra she certainly applied to her fall collection. “I think women have to look good,” she said of this season’s starting point. “We cannot forget that fashion is for your eye.” Thus, she gave us plenty to look at with a lavish lineup that drew on 18th century architectural details and tony textiles.

 

Long, lean and nipped at the waist was the dominant silhouette, which suggested an elegance emanating from the Victorian era, particularly in sharp riding jackets worn over fishtail skirts. Though dressed up by daytime standards, the day looks, including skinny, slouchy silk pants and blouses, were some of the strongest, but this collection’s focus was on formalwear. Gowns were slim with volume at the bottom, some with leg of mutton sleeves and covered buttons that ran up the back were practically prim. Others cut away at the shoulders and back for discreet sex appeal. Where Herrera struggled was with the balance between refinement and artsiness. The rich jewel tones — emerald green, bronze, violet and teal — were lovely, but the combination of overtly intricate constructions and the extravagant baroque fabric mixes sometimes overwhelmed with their opulence.