As evidenced by their collection for Gianfranco Ferré, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi have an unshakable shoulder fetish. They indulged it yet again for their own line, which was full of pads, peaks and pagoda sleeves, featured on dresses and jackets belted over balloon skirts. The clothes shared Ferré’s dark, glamorous tone but not its severe architectural effect; the collection was softer but still quite arch in its use of Eighties-inspired silhouettes that were trim on the bottom with dramatic flourishes up top. It was sharp and striking on several versions of le smoking and fur-trimmed coats. Elsewhere, it turned brooding and romantic. One black sheath came belted with fuchsia leg-of-mutton sleeves, a shape that appeared throughout on covered-up cocktail dresses, some sporting bunchy balloon skirts. That’s where the designers got weighed down.  Colors were dark, fabrics were heavy — thick velvet and stiff silk — and at times dramatically embellished with embroideries sprouting from suit shoulders. It felt very serious.