Preshow, Anne Valérie Hash noted that fall revolves around a play of masculine and feminine. That’s no news flash to those already familiar with her oeuvre; her collections are always about the deft dance between the two. But this time, rather than splicing both motifs into a single garment, Hash divvied them up — the first half of the show focused on heavy tailoring; the second half a light, gentle romance.

Hash opened her show, held in a former-brothel-turned-atelier, with a spare blazer over trousers. What followed was more of the conservative same — oversize mannish coats, boxy furs and pea jackets in a palette of grays and navys. Then came the feminine fare, all frothily ruffled and elegantly draped, some shot up with ample moments of sheer. It was pretty, but not without its hiccups, like the back-bustled frock or the tutu-esque peplums tracing the hips of dresses and pants. Still, all was forgiven by the time the evening gowns came around, especially the lovely metallic tulle number with tightly packed petal embellishments.