Phillip Lim gave his clothes names like “Hendrix” and “Carnaby,” and kicked off the show with a performance by Lissy Trullie. This was clearly going to be a trip to the rocking London Sixties, complete with a Peggy Moffitt angled coif. And, sure, Lim’s women were Youthquake cool. They wore ruffled silk dandy blouses, skinny boot-leg pants, fluttery Ossie Clark-like dresses and Mongolian fur chubbies, not to mention peaked-shoulder tuxedo jackets that veered into Seventies glam rock in a silver paisley jacquard version. But the collection could have benefited from a less stylized hand. Strip the heavy-handed thematics and you saw what makes Lim such a force in the market: terrific coats with breakaway hems, draped pullovers and one excellent parka with rabbit fur lining.

Meanwhile, Lim’s men’s wear (see images) bore none of the childish proportions and colors of past seasons, but what exactly replaced that playful point of view remained a mystery. Why bother trying to fathom a relationship between band uniforms, hunting, metal studs and leisure suits? The limited men’s showing was simply a scattered and unsatisfying representation.