Pre-Fall Collections 2009

A look at the season's latest collections.

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Prada pre-fall 2009.

Photo By Khepri Studio

Gucci Pre-Fall 2009.

Photo By Khepri Studio

Miu Miu pre-fall 2009.

Photo By Sakis Lakis


Fashion isn't just about spring and fall. Pre-collections have increasingly become a force in the industry, with new designers joining the fray every season. Here, a continuously archived collection of all the looks from pre-fall 2009.



AKRIS: Albert Kriemler, who’s known for his clean lines and luxurious fabrics, remained true to that aesthetic, but he also created abstract-print blouses and coats with beautiful embroideries.


ALBERTA FERRETTI: She is a romantic at heart, and Alberta Ferretti’s lineup of dresses was a nod to silver-screen stars.


ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: Dickensian London is a rich theme for Alexander McQueen. “I was thinking with a 19th-century head on,” he said of designing his pre-fall collection.


ALEXANDER WANG: Influenced by the early Nineties and Tom Ford’s Gucci days, Alexander Wang turned out a sexy, sophisticated lineup.


ARMANI COLLEZIONI: Understated elegance was the order of the day for Giorgio Armani.


AZZARO: Along with her regular pre-fall collection, Vanessa Seward unveiled a capsule collection of crystal-embroidered minis designed by indie pop chanteuse April March.


BADGLEY MISCHKA: According to Mark Badgley and James Mischka, pre-fall is about “beautiful, happy clothes ­— nothing serious,” and with that in mind, they turned out a lineup of fanciful gowns and youthful cocktail dresses with plenty of embellishments, feathers and frayed ruffles.


BALENCIAGA: Nicolas Ghesquière knows just how to blend traditional French elements with unexpected pieces and details, including his distinctive draping.


BOTTEGA VENETA: Tomas Maier went for his signature elegant, luxurious effects.


BURBERRY PRORSUM: Revisiting the classics, Christopher Bailey turned out a stellar lineup with a polished yet disheveled sensibility.


CALVIN KLEIN: Francisco Costa showed two sides of his current fascination with chic futurism, one sober and the other, light as air.


CAROLINA HERRERA: Carolina Herrera hit a charming balance between soft and strict.


CHANEL MÉTIERS D'ART: Karl Lagerfeld showed a Russian-themed satellite collection with glimmering brocades, fur trims and luscious embroideries.


CHRISTIAN DIOR: John Galliano’s collection for Christian Dior took inspiration from Alfred Hitchcock’s icy heroines and Helmut Newton’s tough-chic glamazons.


CHRISTIAN LACROIX: Christian Lacroix tapped into a rich well of inspiration: his own couture oeuvre.


CHLOÉ: Hannah MacGibbon turned out an effortless collection of delicate crystal-embellished tops and tailored trousers.


DIANE VON FURSTENBERG: It’s a jungle out there, or, as Diane von Furstenberg said of her pre-fall collection, an urban jungle.


DKNY: Classic looks with clean lines were the order of the day.


DOLCE & GABBANA: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have gone all out for a dressed-up sensuality this season in both their signature tailored looks in gray flannels and tweeds and shapely dresses in silk satin and velvet, some detailed with paillettes and embroideries.


DONNA KARAN: Nix “pre-fall.” Donna Karan’s “transeasonal” collection, as she called it, was inspired by today’s economic climate and intended to be worn year-round.


DOO.RI: Doo-Ri Chung offered a coherent collection focused on proportions and tricks, as in dresses that give the illusion of having separate layers.


EMANUEL UNGARO: For pre-fall, Esteban Cortazar visited the Ungaro archives, reinterpreting the designer’s polkadot prints and his trademark draping and ruffles.


EMILIO PUCCI: For his first pre-fall collection for Pucci, artistic director Peter Dundas focused on cocktailwear in satin and jersey, as well as printed and beaded georgette looks with a Twenties feel.


ESCADA: Inspired by Grace Jones and Helmut Newton, Damiano Biella,  turned out a collection of haberdashery pieces with feminine touches as well as plenty of sexy body-hugging dresses and skirts.


GIAMBATTISTA VALLI: The designer, who usually shows in Paris, made a return to his homeland of Italy for a pre-fall runway show.


GIANFRANCO FERRE: Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi said they were interpreting a new fashion code, one that emphasizes a woman’s inner self rather than in-your-face sexiness.


GILES: The looks include curvy duchesse satin dresses with bows, shiny satin cowboy shirts paired with skinny skirts and sack dresses with laser-cut details.


GIORGIO ARMANI: Armani kept his options open with slim or A-line skirts, full or lean pants and elaborately detailed jackets


GIVENCHY: Riccardo Tisci drew inspiration from Peruvian diva Yma Sumac and Mexican painter Frida Kahlo.


GUCCI: British eccentricity inspired Frida Giannini’s lineup for Gucci, which featured smartly tailored jackets and pants as well as sleek dresses in silk georgette.


ISAAC MIZRAHI: Isaac Mizrahi turned out a terrific mix of seasonless looks that the designer referred to as the “stock for fall’s soup.”


J.MENDEL: Each season, Gilles Mendel expands his range of eveningwear choices and younger, less serious furs to throw on top. For pre-fall, he has also added lots of day looks.


JOHN GALLIANO: Multicultural references, like Indian embellishments adorning wool parkas
and trenches, ran through a wearable, feminine collection.


LANVIN: In these uncertain times, Alber Elbaz still believes in dreams and the power of glamour and beauty. For Lanvin, he took paillettes and lamé to a new level and introduced luxe evening fabrics for day.


LOEWE: Creative director Stuart Vevers looked to men’s wear, softening shapes and adding sharp accessories.


LOUIS VUITTON: Marc Jacobs keeps a retro mood for Louis Vuitton’s pre-fall collection, inspired by a book about wartime fashions.


MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA: For pre-fall, Martin Margiela launched his Avant Premiere collection with laser-cut dresses and T-shirts, webby knits and circular sweaters.


MATTHEW WILLIAMSON: Glam rock was the order of the day for Matthew Williamson as he opted for heavily encrusted embroideries and plenty of gold studs.


MAX MARA: Inspired by New York City in the Fifties, the design team behind Max Mara turned out a collection of pretty printed dresses, cozy knits and cocoon coats — all timeless and feminine.


MICHAEL KORS: “If you can’t afford to buy art, you wear it,” is Michael Kors’ philosophy, reflected in his pre-fall lineup of graphic print dresses and sleek sportswear.


MISSONI: Angela Missoni focused on contemporary, kooky knitwear.


MIU MIU: Miuccia Prada opted for a school-girl approach with a nod to uniforms.


MONIQUE LHUILLIER: Her frothy frocks and dramatic gowns would make any starlet stand out.


MOSCHINO: Moschino pre-fall has evolved from the house’s previous collections and features such signature pieces as jackets and cocktail dresses with a twist.


MOSCHINO CHEAP AND CHIC: The pre-fall lineup features lean silhouettes, but with such feminine details as bowknots, flounces, pearl embroidery and draping.



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