WWD

An Issey Miyake show without a quirky subtext is, well, hardly an Issey Miyake show. Designer Dai Fujiwara was inspired this season by a “color-hunting” trip he made to the Amazon and a subsequent meeting with famed Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, who drew a line that Fujiwara turned into a dress — a draped-around-the-body style in pale green. Fujiwara was clearly looking for different ways to treat the organic and architectural themes so dear to the house. The results were both soft and futuristic, from diaphanous sheath dresses in blue and purple to a billowing pleated jacket. Much of the inventiveness was in the fabrics. Some were woven with eight color threads, while others were based on light filtered through a prism. Fujiwara, now in his fourth season at Miyake, is showing a firm understanding of the brand’s DNA.