What works for men can work for women, too.
That seems to be the mantra among European designers, who increasingly are previewing what’s ahead in their women’s collections in the men’s wear styles they show a few months earlier.
While conventional wisdom is that men’s wear lags trends in women’s, the fact the two are increasingly in parallel should perhaps be not that surprising: After all, they emerge from the same creative minds and exhibit the same brand ethos.
For example, Prada’s show for women last month featured hefty wools and no-nonsense tailoring, staged with scaffolding and charcoal-gray carpet — repeats of what the house showed to the men’s market in January.
Bottega Veneta’s plush velvets and milky colors, Gareth Pugh’s spiny armor, Giorgio Armani’s black velvet, and Dolce & Gabbana’s ribbon weavings and Schiaparelli pinks were all featured on men before women.
“Since we pretty much design the collections simultaneously, what is inspiring us at the moment could appear throughout our work regardless if it is women’s or men’s,” though not always, said Domenico Dolce. “The Dolce & Gabbana woman and man don’t live in separate worlds.”
“On the contrary, they share similar interests, taste and way of living,” added Stefano Gabbana.
And later, when the collections are juxtaposed in brands’ flagships, they need to complement each other.
Gucci’s fall shows transported both genders to an Eighties New Wave dance club where the patrons dripped with Lurex, lamé, colorful references to Memphis design, and serious attitude.
“I develop the men’s collection before the women’s, but I always try to create a feeling that links the two,” said Gucci designer Frida Giannini. “To me, they are a couple, and it’s important to maintain a connection between them. It is a good couple to see together.” She works with distinct inspirations for each, “as they do have different personalities, but I like to build a connection between the Gucci man and woman,” she said.
Jil Sander creative director Raf Simons doesn’t deliberately forge a relationship between his man and woman, but it nonetheless arises sometimes, as in the latest collections, both remarkable for their sculpted curvature.
“I see no systematic need [for their togetherness in] my work,” he said. “But sometimes we work on an approach that is for both collections strong and challenging, as for the last fall-winter. There the development of shapes was essential for the women’s and men’s.”
All Profiles
- Agon, Jean-Paul
- Ahrendts, Angela
- Armani, Giorgio
- Arnault, Bernard
- Beetz, Bernd
- Bertelli, Patrizio
- Card, Wesley R
- Cardin, Pierre
- Chirico, Emanuel
- Cole, Kenneth
- de la Renta, Oscar
- De Sole, Domenico
- Della Valle, Diego
- Dillard II, William
- Dolce, Domenico
- Drexler, Millard
- Edmonds, Scott A
- Elfers, Jane
- Facchinetti, Alessandra
- Ford, Tom
- Frankfort, Lew
- Fung, William
- Gabbana, Stefano
- Galliano, John
- Gaultier, Jean Paul
- Ghesquière, Nicolas
- Gold, James J
- Gould, Michael
- Green, Philip
- Greenfield, Stefani
- Gromek, Joe
- Hilfiger, Tommy
- Jacobs, Marc
- Jeffries, Michael S
- Jung, Andrea
- Kalinsky, Jeffrey
- Karan, Donna
- Kawakubo, Rei
- Klein, Calvin
- Klein, Ron
- Kors, Michael
- Krill, Kay
- Lacroix, Christian
- Lagerfeld, Karl
- Lauder, Leonard
- Lauder, William P
- Lauren, Ralph
- Lee, Mark
- Lundgren, Terry
- Mansell, Kevin
- Marciano, Maurice
- Marciano, Paul
- Markfield, Roger S
- McCartney, Stella
- McComb, William L
- McQueen, Alexander
- Meyrowitz, Carol
- Mizrahi, Isaac
- Montgomery, R Lawrence
- Murphy, Glenn
- ODonnell, James V
- Pilati, Stefano
- Pinault, François-Henri
- Polet, Robert
- Prada, Miuccia
- Rupert, Johann
- Sadove, Stephen I
- Schottenstein, Jay
- Scott, H Lee
- Senk, Glen
- Steinhafel, Gregg W
- Sullivan, Trudy
- Tansky, Burton M
- Traub, Marvin
- Versace, Donatella
- von Furstenberg, Diane
- Wang, Vera
- Wexner, Leslie H
- Wilson, Marcia
- Wiseman, Eric
- Yamamoto, Yohji
- Abercrombie & Fitch
- Adidas AG
- Aeropostale
- Alberto-Culver Co.
- Alliance Boots
- American Eagle Outfitters
- Ann Taylor Stores Corp.
- Armani
- Avon
- Bare Escentuals
- Barneys
- Bebe
- Beiersdorf Group
- Benetton Group SpA
- Berkshire Hathaway
- Bon-Ton
- Bulgari Group
- Burberry Group plc
- Carrefour Group
- Chanel
- Charming Shoppes
- Cherokee Inc.
- Chico's FAS
- Christian Dior
- Clarins Group
- Coach Inc.
- Compagnie Financiere Richemont SA
- COTY INC.
- Delia's
- Dial
- Dillard's
- Eddie Bauer
- Elizabeth Arden Inc.
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Escada
- Esprit Holdings Ltd.
- Estée Lauder
- EuroItalia
- Fast Retailing
- Ferragamo
- Fossil
- Frederick's of Hollywood
- Galeries Lafayette
- Gap
- Gianni Versace SpA
- Gucci
- Guess
- H&M
- Hanesbrands
- Henkel Group
- Hermès
- Hugo Boss
- Iconix
- Inditex
- Inter Parfums
- IT Holding
- J. Crew
- J.C. Penney
- Jockey International
- Johnson & Johnson
- Jones Apparel Group
- Kao Corp.
- Kellwood Co.
- Kenneth Cole Productions
- Kohl's Corp.
- Kose Corp.
- L'Occitane
- L'Oreal
- L.L. Bean
- Lane Crawford
- Levi Strauss & Co.
- Li & Fung
- Limited Brands
- Liz Claiborne
- Lord & Taylor
- Luxottica Group
- LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton
- Macy's
- Maidenform
- Marchon Eyewear Inc
- Markwins International
- Mary Kay
- Mervyns
- Movado
- Natura
- Neiman Marcus Group
- Nexcen Brands Inc.
- Nike
- Nordstrom
- Oscar de la Renta Ltd.
- Pacific Sunwear of California Inc.
- Perry Ellis International
- Philips Van-Heusen
- Pierre Cardin
- Polo Ralph Lauren
- PPR
- Prada SpA
- Procter & Gamble
- Puig Beauty and Fashion Group
- Puma A.G.
- Quiksilver
- Retail Ventures Inc.
- Revlon Inc.
- Saks Inc.
- Sears Holdings Corp.
- Selective Beauty
- Stein Mart
- Swatch
- Talbots
- Target Corp.
- Tarrant Apparel Group
- Tiffany & Co.
- Timberland
- Timex
- TJX Cos.
- Tod's SpA
- Tommy Hilfiger USA Inc.
- Topshop
- True Religion
- Tween Brands
- Unilever
- Urban Outfitters
- Vera Wang
- VF Corp.
- Victorinox AG
- Wal-Mart
- Warnaco Group Inc.
- Wet Seal
- Zale Corp.
- Zumiez
Fashion Shows Go His and Hers
by
Posted Monday April 20, 2009
Last Edited Tuesday May 05, 2009
From WWD Issue 04/20/2009





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