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FOR MEN ONLY: For his second collection of men’s shoes, Nicholas Kirkwood is working on developing a signature. For him, so far, it is a thick sole and — in some shoes — a super-soft finish of the leather in the heel. He played with color blocking for spring/summer 2014, teaming teal, orange and navy with a metallic lime green trim over seams, or putting navy, black and blue together in raffia derby shapes. One pair in a rust suede with a copper panel at the heel was especially beautiful. A technical sports mesh was used with a silver trim to effect a space-age look (“Anyone planning a trip to Mars should have a pair,” said Kirkwood. In a more classical vein, there were boots, derbys and loafers in taupe, caramel and black.