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HEDI OR NOT: A war of words erupted Tuesday between Hedi Slimane and Cathy Horyn after Yves Saint Laurent’s new creative director barred The New York Times fashion critic from his Paris runway debut for Saint Laurent on Monday.
Horyn posted a review of the show on her On the Runway blog based on digital images, concluding that the collection was “a nice but frozen vision of a bohemian chick at the Chateau Marmont. Or in St. Tropez. Mr. Slimane’s clothes lacked a new fashion spirit.
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“I expected more from his debut,” she continued. “Meanwhile, its competitors — Balenciaga, Dior, Givenchy, Celine, Lanvin — are having a terrific season.”
In the post, Horyn also pinpoints the root of their prickly relations, saying Slimane “objected bitterly to a review I wrote in 2004 — not about him but Raf Simons. Essentially, I wrote that without Mr. Simons’ template of slim tailoring and street casting, there would not have been a Hedi Slimane — just as there would never have been a Raf Simons without Helmut Lang. Fashion develops a bit like a genetic line.”
Later in the day, Slimane posted a letter on Twitter in which he called Horyn, “a schoolyard bully and also a little bit of a stand-up comedian.”
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“As far as I’m concerned, she will never get a seat at Saint Laurent, but might get 2-for-1 at Dior,” Slimane wrote, alluding to Horyn’s vocal support for Simons, who joined Dior as its couturier earlier this year after seven years at the design helm of Jil Sander in Milan. “I don’t mind critics, but they have to come from a fashion critic, not a publicist in disguise. I am quite mesmerized she did get away with it for so many years.”
Reached on Tuesday evening, Horyn shrugged off the missive, adding: “It’s just silly nonsense to me.”