TROUBLE IN FERRE LAND?: Before even showing his first women's collection for Ferré, there already might be growing tension between Lars Nilsson and his bosses. The Swedish designer's stint at the Italian design house began in September, when he succeeded Gianfranco Ferré, who died in June. Nilsson is said to be behind schedule preparing the collection. Neither Nilsson nor executives of IT Holding SpA, the Italian parent company of Ferré, returned calls.

TERRY'S TURN: With his show staged in the home of opera, the newly engaged Tommy Hilfiger may be a long way from his rap roots in the Nineties — but Pharrell was still there to bow to Anna Wintour in the front row of Thursday night's show at Lincoln Center. Other front-rowers included Julianne Moore, Maggie Gyllenhaal and Helena Christensen — all in Hilfiger.

But before the show, behind the scenes, more important conversations were going on when Macy's Inc. chief executive officer Terry Lundgren popped backstage at 6:15 p.m. (for the 6 o'clock show) to get his first peek at the line, which is now exclusive to the retailer. "It's all been very top secret," the ceo said. Lundgren and Hilfiger looked at a bulletin board filled with pictures of the looks. Did retail's most powerful executive have a favorite look? "I already love the camel coat," he pointed to a shot of a peacoat.

"You won't find a jean on the runway," Hilfiger said. "That's a separate part of the business now. I wanted to bring back American sportswear as we knew it back then."

ALL ABOUT EVA: Eva Longoria Parker dropped by the tents Thursday morning to see Naeem Khan's fall finery. He did, after all, design the white gown she wore to the SAG Awards just last month. While New Yorkers are being inundated with commercials for her new comedy, "Over Her Dead Body," the "Desperate Housewives'' star is eager to get back to her TV show. Tony Parker's wife is already at work on "Lower Learning," a comedy with Jason Biggs. She also has lined up her first animated role as Lady X in the forthcoming "Foodfight!" with Charlie Sheen and Hilary and Haylie Duff. But the diminutive actress was keeping any fashion week antics to herself. "Lots of funny things have happened, but nothing we can talk about," she said, slyly smiling at stylist Robert Verdi.