Even with the hindsight of hundreds of shows, Marc Jacobs’ New York blockbuster remains the season’s most intriguing. Conflicting opinions heralded the designer as fab fashion deity or Satan of schmattas. Jacobs foretold both sides, however unintentionally, with a little help from master milliner Stephen Jones.
“Pajamas decorated with fairies—who will wear that?” queried one nonbelieving fashion editor. More to the point, who other than Miuccia Prada would dare suggest it? Her dark fairy tale was captivating.
Reality fascinates? You bet. With this coat-and-dress combination, Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz turned every working woman in his audience into his love slave, fashionably speaking.
Couture often masquerades as ready-to-wear at Alexander McQueen. Here, it did so in breathtaking feathers, both real and faux.
Tired of ho-hum spangle-ry—here, here—Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière proposed a shocking space-glam alternative for big nights out. Whether the red-carpet set boards the ship remains to be seen.
Dolce & Gabbana
After two seasons of dominatrix chic at Dolce & Gabbana, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana did a 180, working a painterly inspiration for this glorious ballgown.
His “Nurses” opening set the tone for Marc Jacobs’ unabashedly commercial collaboration with Richard Prince at Louis Vuitton. Can it top the still-registering Murakami returns?
The environment was on the mind of many designers, including Giles Deacon who paid tribute, ironically, in full-on leafy Latex.
Watching young talent develop is one of fashion’s great joys. Rodarte’s Mulleavy sisters may have struggled a bit, but they took a major step toward commercial viability.
Minimal? Jil Sander’s Raf Simons actually went for minimalism-plus, working in mesmerizing flourishes such as this ethereal tulle pouf.