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WWDSCOOP: Fascinating Fashion

The spring '08 collections were fabulous, rich with ample thought-provoking fare.

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The spring '08 collections were fabulous, rich with ample thought-provoking fare. Here, the season’s 11 most fascinating exits. (Marc Jacobs’ New York show boasted a duet.) —BRIDGET FOLEY

Marc Jacobs
Even with the hindsight of hundreds of shows, Marc Jacobs’ New York blockbuster remains the season’s most intriguing. Conflicting opinions heralded the designer as fab fashion deity or Satan of schmattas. Jacobs foretold both sides, however unintentionally, with a little help from master milliner Stephen Jones.

Prada
“Pajamas decorated with fairies—who will wear that?” queried one nonbelieving fashion editor. More to the point, who other than Miuccia Prada would dare suggest it? Her dark fairy tale was captivating.

Lanvin
Reality fascinates? You bet. With this coat-and-dress combination, Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz turned every working woman in his audience into his love slave, fashionably speaking.

Alexander McQueen
Couture often masquerades as ready-to-wear at Alexander McQueen. Here, it did so in breathtaking feathers, both real and faux.

Balenciaga
Tired of ho-hum spangle-ry—here, here—Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière proposed a shocking space-glam alternative for big nights out. Whether the red-carpet set boards the ship remains to be seen.

Dolce & Gabbana
After two seasons of dominatrix chic at Dolce & Gabbana, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana did a 180, working a painterly inspiration for this glorious ballgown.

Louis Vuitton
His “Nurses” opening set the tone for Marc Jacobs’ unabashedly commercial collaboration with Richard Prince at Louis Vuitton. Can it top the still-registering Murakami returns?

Giles
The environment was on the mind of many designers, including Giles Deacon who paid tribute, ironically, in full-on leafy Latex.

Rodarte
Watching young talent develop is one of fashion’s great joys. Rodarte’s Mulleavy sisters may have struggled a bit, but they took a major step toward commercial viability.

Jil Sander
Minimal? Jil Sander’s Raf Simons actually went for minimalism-plus, working in mesmerizing flourishes such as this ethereal tulle pouf.
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