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WWD Week in Review: 2/26/10

The top stories for the week ending in February 26, 2010.

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Prada RTW Fall 2010

Photo By Davide Maestri

Burberry Prorsum RTW Fall 2010

Photo By Giovanni Giannoni

Milan Fashion Week: Women's Fall 2010 Ready to Wear

If there is anything Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana love, aside from a bustier, it’s a theme, particularly for their D&G collection. So when the lights went down and the video of snow-capped peaks went up at their show on Thursday, it was obvious that, just as they did for men’s, the boys were hitting the slopes. Or, more likely, the lodge, as these girls, cozied up in cute, cropped sweaters; teeny knit bloomers, and tube tops accessorized with glittery goggles and knee-high fur boots, were strictly snow bunnies. It was an adorable Alpine escapade, central to which were fresh, Nordic knits done in combinations of maroon and ivory and gray and ivory, some sporting a reindeer or two. Much of fashion is in a sportswear mood, and Fendi’s Karl Lagerfeld served up one of the season’s strongest takes. Lagerfeld started out with a focus on structure and intriguing architectural cuts (e.g., the opening cocoon like fur coat with a sliced-out arch in the front) before moving on to roomier and more relaxed silhouettes. To wit, stylish smock dresses came with wide bishop sleeves, some with cascading drape details, while tailored vests and coatdresses were cut into swingy trapeze shapes. Before her Thursday night show, Miuccia Prada declared her collection “very feminine” and “sexy,” noting a big emphasis on the breasts. Sex appeal — this collection had plenty. But in Prada’s world, it’s not about baring all, but covering it up, a point she made straight out of the gate with a plain black wool dress with long sleeves, high-cut neck and knee-length, A-line skirt ruffled at the hem. See all collections from the ongoing season here>>

London Fashion Week Wraps Up

London fashion week has just wrapped up, and at Burberry, chief creative officer Christopher Bailey showed exactly who’s in command of British fashion with a powerful, military-themed collection built around the aviator jacket, the trench and the frock coat — with softness coming in the form of curvy silk, lace and washed velvet silhouettes. Those whose travel plans didn’t include a trip to London got there remotely thanks to the brand’s 3-D live stream. Meanwhile, at Christopher Kane, Priscilla Presley and juvenile delinquents were among the inspirations the designer cited for this sweetly subversive collection. Kane crafted prim, almost school-girlish silhouettes ­ including high-necked, cap-sleeve shift dresses, collared blouses and kilts - from tough, racy fabrics. At Matthew Williamson, The designer famous for his bohemian aesthetic and ethnic inspirations moved on this season, turning out a strong, sophisticated collection that had his fans, including front-row guest Sienna Miller, swooning. Grecian goddesses clad in delicately draped Lurex dresses or satin gowns with myriad folds rubbed shoulders with urban sophisticates dressed in dramatic tweed coats with a single ruffle rippling down the front. Paul Smith showed a collection fit for naughty ladies from the shires. By day, they don riding jackets — some in bright yellow, others in lamé with red collars. They also favor oversize tweed hunting and shooting jackets paired with tweed corsets and pleated skirts. Come sundown, Smith’s ladies cast off their woolens and slip on prom dresses with blurred digital flower prints. London fashion week also played hosts to parties hosted by Pringle (including guests Lily Collins, Peaches Geldof, Tilda Swinton. Ryan McGinley, David Shrigley, Jacquetta Wheeler and Matthew Williamson, whose star-studded fete was held at The Club at The Ivy. See all collections from London fashion week here>>

J.Crew's Overseas Push: Retailer Going Global on Net-a-porter

J. Crew is going global with Net-a-porter.com. In its first major push overseas, the retailer’s products will be featured on Net-a-porter’s Web site starting in mid-May. Currently, J. Crew operates stores only in the U.S. and is available in North America and Japan through its catalogues and Web site. However, the brand’s recognition factor and distribution could grow considerably since Net-a-porter ships to more than 170 countries. J. Crew’s growth via Net-a-porter will also depend on the degree the Web site plays up the brand’s merchandise. Another designer pushing the global end of her business is Carolina Herrera, who opened a CH Carolina Herrera store in London. The new shop, at 120 Mount Street, across from the Connaught Hotel, spans 1,845 square feet over two levels — ground floor and basement. The store carries the full CH line, with accessories from wallets to books to costume jewelry on the ground floor and women’s, men’s, and children’s wear downstairs. Additionally, a new Marc Jacobs store opened on Chicago’s Rush Street and Burberry is coming to the Upper West Side of Manhattan, which has recently become a magnet for better brands. Sources said the London-based company has signed a lease for 3,000 square feet at 160 Columbus Avenue, which is between 67th and 68th Streets. Burberry will be right next to Ugg, on the west side of Columbus Avenue. The site is under construction. Burberry executives could not be reached for comment.
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