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Of course, when a girl looks this good, what’s not to be happy about? True, she might have to shell out couture bucks for a big night out, because here, Lagerfeld virtually ignored evening, save for some little black dresses and some sweet, tiered frocks. Then again, if she’s lucky enough to get her hands on one of those spectacular tweed-trimmed trenchcoats, she’ll never want night to fall.
Viktor & Rolf: Surprise! It lies at the heart of every Viktor & Rolf collection. So do an extraordinary flamboyance and skill level to match, which make the work of Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren so special. In the collection the designers showed on Friday, they delivered a real surprise, backing away from the kind of grandeur that typically marks their collection in both scale and concept — and that is currently on view in their remarkable 10-year retrospective at the Union Centrale des Arts Décoratifs. Instead, the duo offered a saucy, even lighthearted, take on chic sportswear.
A cinematic theme ran throughout, in the red shoes worn with every look, in the soundtrack that lured the audience over the rainbow and in the models’ hair frizzed with a hint of Marlene Dietrich. And surely one found a certain retro glamour to the designers’ take on sportif, as they delivered a casual attitude with the kind of sparkle radiated by movie stars in the Forties. Pastel sweaters with graceful, shoulder-baring necklines slid over shorts or knickers; jackets were loose, and pants and dresses were sometimes secured with elastic at the waist. The palette worked a range of gentle pastels — pinks, blues, grays — and often, a bow at the neck or shoulder further softened the look. It all felt beautifully relaxed but not a bit haphazard — clothes for a woman who values polish as a way of life, even at its most casual moments.