Women’s Wear Daily
04.16.2014
fashion-features
fashion-features

RM by Roland Mouret

Roland Mouret is fascinated by nuance, the exact spot at which a seam hits the waist; the impact of angles created by a single fabric fold, how the subtle shift of a dart makes all the difference in the way a dress caresses the body. It’s an...

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Roland Mouret is fascinated by nuance, the exact spot at which a seam hits the waist; the impact of angles created by a single fabric fold, how the subtle shift of a dart makes all the difference in the way a dress caresses the body. It’s an approach not suited to major mood swings from season to season, as was apparent in his coolly chic second RM ready-to-wear collection, shown on Wednesday morning. Mouret worked with the same basic principles as last season — lean shapes, precision cuts, slyly intricate seaming, origami folds — but now delivered them with a slightly more aggressive attitude punctuated by a tougher shoe. He took his penchant for geometric exactitude in divergent directions, manipulating seams and fabric placement for perfect symmetry or its opposite, as with a number of one-shoulder shapes tied into big, crisp bows. It made for the kind of interesting clothes in which many women will look and feel great. Mouret’s challenge now is to vary his repertoire enough to keep his very specific vision compelling to those women, most of whom are less fascinated than he with the minute details of construction.


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