Retail Heaven: Buyers Laud Paris for Commercial Creativity

Retailers love Paris when it sizzles, as it did for spring 2004. The season rollicked with femininity and creativity, and best of all, they say, it will sell.

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“Alexander McQueen had a softer, lighter [comfort]. At Chloé, Phoebe [Philo] did a very good job this season moving the collection forward in her own way. We also loved Dries Van Noten, who continues to explore the lightness of layering. There is a new energy at Ungaro. We also think John Galliano did a great [presentation] — a million great ideas came from that show.”

Sheikh Majed Al-Sabah, owner, Villa Moda: “To me, Paris was a star in eveningwear — from Alexander McQueen, John Galliano and Valentino — and feminine, soft sportswear, like we saw at Chloé and Stella McCartney. Normally, Paris goes to the edge, but this season I saw a lot of commercial pieces.”

Evelyn Gorman, owner, Mix in Houston: “I was waiting for a really wild show: something that grabs you and keeps you. Lanvin was that show. It was elegant and the proportions offered secure femininity without excess. It was colorful without being bold, dramatic without being dull, sexy without being too revealing. I absolutely loved it. The epitome of grown-up chic. I also enjoyed Chloé, Rochas, Rick Owens and Helmut Lang.”

Joan Burstein, owner, Browns, London: “There is a return to femininity, purity in clothing, there is less aggression; everything is softer and prettier. McQueen was the most outstanding. I loved the whole idea and use of chiffon, beautiful prints and colors in soft greens, pinks and reds. Next season everyone will want chiffon — a soft chiffon dress.”

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