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Giorgio Armani's decision weeks ago to schedule his Emporio show on Sunday, Feb. 17, spurred other houses to show that day. Jil Sander and Missoni are now also set for Sunday, with two shows each. Since less international brands are set to show Feb. 16 and the following Saturday, Mario Boselli, head of the Chamber, said he was pleased with the calendar. "We have so many companies that want to show on those days that we can barely accommodate them," he said.
Giorgio Armani, Just Cavalli, Pringle, Burberry, Alberta Ferretti and Gianfranco Ferré are slated for Feb. 18, with Armani and Ferré holding two shows each. Prada, also with two shows, Bottega Veneta, Salvatore Ferragamo, 6267, Blumarine, Marni and Etro are scheduled for Feb. 19.
Roberto Cavalli, Gucci, with two shows, and Krizia will show on Feb. 20, followed the next day by DSquared2, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Luisa Beccaria, MaxMara and Versace. Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi and Versace will each hold two shows.
The full week will surely please most retailers and editors, as the four-day crunch in September created havoc and traffic congestion around the city. Retailers were especially frustrated because the truncated week did not allow them to make showroom appointments between shows. The fashion pack was divided, with Stefano Tonchi, editor of The New York Times' T magazine telling WWD it was "quite a horrible experience," and "suicide for Italian fashion." Suzy Menkes, fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune, called the schedule with off-calendar, early starts and late shows "catastrophic." Conversely, Anna Wintour, editor in chief of American Vogue, said it was "fabulous," and saw the four-day week as cost-saving. At the end of the shows, Wintour even sent a thank-you letter to the Italian Chamber of Fashion and its designers.
Roberto Cavalli said Thursday that "compacting" the calendar helps "streamline the work of the professionals in this industry," from the press to the retailers and the designers themselves.