Tonight in Florence, and once again linked with wool, Lagerfeld, at the very least in name, will help shine the spotlight on another emerging fashion talent: Jean-Pierre Braganza.
Braganza is one of five "Protégés" who have been handpicked and mentored by five top figures in fashion for the development of an Australian merino-based capsule collection. His Lagerfeld-guided collection will be unveiled tonight at the Palazzo Corsini, alongside those of Kristian Aadnevik (Donatella Versace), Ioannis Cholidis (Paul Smith), Julian Louie (Francisco Costa) and Sandra Backlund (Italian Vogue editor Franca Sozzani).
The Protégé Project is an initiative of Australian Wool Innovation, the industry's marketing arm, and was launched as part of the 2007 bicentenary celebrations of the export of the first bale of Australian merino wool.
Beyond a number of recent collaborations with Australian fashion names including Josh Goot and Jayson Brunsdon, whose New York Fashion Week shows have been sponsored by AWI, the Protégé Project represents the first major promotional collaboration between the industry and the international fashion community since 1988, when nine designers, including Kenzo, Claude Montana, Sonia Rykiel and the late Gianni Versace, flew to Sydney to take part in the Bicentennial Wool Collection show at the Sydney Opera House.
The Protégé Project collections, three of them women's wear and two men's wear (Cholidis and Louie), and boasting 30 outfits apiece, were created in collaboration with Italian mills and textile companies including Cerruti, Ermenegildo Zegna, Loro Piana, Reda, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Chiavazza and Zegna Baruffa.
The collections will travel to Australia, China and Japan later this year. There are no plans at present to put them into production.
Compared with Lagerfeld and Saint Laurent in 1954, some of these fashion designers are already relatively well-established.
London-born, Canadian-raised Braganza and Norwegian Aadnevik are regulars at London Fashion Week. Greek Cholidis has designed a sneaker line for Puma and consulted to Stella McCartney. Sweden's Backlund is becoming well-known for her avant-garde, hand-crafted knitwear; has consulted for Louis Vuitton, and took first prize in the 2007 Hyeres Festival International de Mode et de Photographie.