Women’s Wear Daily
04.19.2014
fashion-features
fashion-features

Dresses to the Rescue: Save Otherwise Safe, Chaotic Milan Season

After an underwhelming Milan season, the dress emerged as a savior and lifted retailers spirits about the feminine, if safe, direction for spring.

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Most Recent Articles In Fashion Features
  • Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Lane Crawford: "Overall, it is all about dresses, dresses, dresses. In fact, the only thing we saw outside of the dress was shorts. The back is back — backless dresses and hidden back slits again were prevalent at most shows. I loved the innovation of fabrics at Prada — so modern and urban yet feminine — the loose, away-from-the-body silhouettes without being too voluminous and the perfect use of decoration."

    Rutson also lauded the refined fabrics used for dresses and skirts at Burberry Prorsum, and the strong African colors at Marni, which stood out amongst all the black and white. She also noted strong shoe trends: a plethora of wedge shoes, patent leather and block heels.

  • Michael Fink, senior fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue: "This was a safe week. For fall, Milan led the way in new silhouettes and the new use of black, but for spring it's about safe clothes and familiar shapes. It's not as creative as fall. This may reflect the uncertainty about what should happen next in design. I loved the confidence at Versace; it was modern and sexy but not vulgar. There was energy and power, clothes for a modern woman. Prada is leading the way in a new direction with silhouettes falling away from the body. What seems simple [hides] complexity, such as the pleats, for example. Also, the back is completely different from the front. Marni made me feel good, with its colors, prints and mixing, which are right for the moment. [At Burberry], Christopher Bailey had a beautiful and sophisticated color palette and the perfect solutions for a woman. Perfect knits and skirts with which a woman is dressed and out the door, polished but easy. But I didn't learn anything new, other than Prada."

  • Joan Kaner of Neiman Marcus: "The dress is a key item. The Empire waist is not a new silhouette, but it continues strongly. The chemises look good, as do blouses and shirts with puff sleeves. As for color, obviously white is sort of leading the way. I was very pleased with Gucci. [Frida Giannini] is off to an auspicious start. It was pretty and romantic. I loved Pucci. It was beautiful, very controlled and right on. I liked Prada very much in the showroom. There's a lot of handiwork in every garment. There are so many appliqués, photo prints and embroidery."
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