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Carita Relaunching Maquillage

Carita, the Parisian hair salon and skin care institute known for its cast of star clients, is relaunching its makeup line.

Byline: ALEV AKTAR

PARIS -- Carita, the Parisian hair salon and skin care institute known for its cast of star clients, is relaunching its makeup line.


The company, a subsidiary of Shiseido, aims to triple sales of the line, called Maquillage Carita, while expanding its worldwide distribution, said Alain Michel, president of Carita SA.


Worldwide sales of Maquillage totaled about $1.5 million wholesale (8 million francs) at current exchange rates, said Michel.


Michel projects annual sales of $4.6 million (25 million francs) wholesale in 1995 for the line.


Carita, which introduced Maquillage in France in 1965, has repeatedly attempted to increase the line's business. The most recent previous repackaging was in 1991.


For the current overhaul, Carita used sleek black and silver containers.


Carita reformulated many of the products or developed new ones, and streamlined the line from more than 100 stockkeeping units to 54.


"It's a classic, basic line. We will update the colors from time to time and probably delete others," said Michel, explaining that Carita will not carry seasonal color stories.


The line is aimed first at Carita clients, among them actresses Catherine Deneuve, Carole Bouquet and supermodel Claudia Schiffer, as well as a wider audience.


In preparation for the relaunch, Carita added an oil-free foundation in a compact and kept its two liquid foundations. The company reformulated its powder, blush, eyeshadow, mascara, lipstick and nail lacquer. It did not change its concealer stick or its lip, eye and eyebrow pencils.


In France, retail prices will run from $17 (90 francs) for nail lacquer to $43 (230 francs) for an oil-free foundation compact.


Carita will back the relaunch with double-page magazine ads throughout Europe, said Michel. In France, Spain and Italy, the budget for the three markets combined will hit $1.4 million (7.5 million francs) this year. The company will distribute 500,000 samples of foundation in France, Italy and Spain.


The line will be launched in September in France, Germany, Italy, Spain, Belgium and Switzerland in 860 doors.
Maquillage also will bow in the Middle East, South America and Asia in September. The Asian market already claims 75 percent of Carita's export sales, or just over $9 million (49 million francs), according to Michel.


In early 1995, Maquillage will roll out to the U.S., beginning on the West Coast, and to Canada and England. Carita products were introduced in Hawaii a month ago, and the makeup line will be launched there in September.


Maquillage has plenty of room to grow. The makeup line made up only 13 percent of Carita's total product sales last year, with hair, body and skin care ranges representing 10, 17 and 60 percent, respectively.


Michel said he is aiming for a more balanced division -- double the share in makeup and hair care, the same share in body product and a shrinking share in skin care.


Carita's total worldwide volume last year was almost $26 million (140 million francs). Of this total, $19.2 million (104 million francs) consisted of ex-factory wholesale volume generated by all Carita products -- including the hair, body and skin care ranges -- to retailers. The remaining $6.7 million (36 million francs) represents retail sales rung up at Carita's salon and institute.


Michel projects a 10 percent increase this year to $28.7 million (155 million francs) worldwide, due mostly to an increase in export sales.

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