Women’s Wear Daily
04.19.2014
fashion-features
fashion-features

Buyers Divide on Paris: Some Praise Season, Others Call It Lackluster

In one of the most divisive seasons in memory, retailers took distinctly opposing views of Paris Fashion Week: Some said sizzle, some said fizzle.

fashion-features/news
View Slideshow
Most Recent Articles In Fashion Features
Most Recent Articles In Fashion Features
Linda Dresner, who operates boutiques in New York and Birmingham, Mich., said she would narrow her focus.

“We’ve been very concentrated on our choices because of the dollar and difficult business. There was sometimes too much of a commercial approach. If it’s too sleepy, it’s not that interesting,” she said. “We’re focusing on looks that are strong and beautiful and have a real signature.”

Comme des Garçons, Junya Watanabe, Martin Margiela, Rochas, Balenciaga and Dries Van Noten were among collections offering such qualities. “We’re definitely interested in the larger, looser pants,” she said. “I think it looks good with a small, feminine, curved jackets.”

Dresner also cited a trend toward evening fabrics for day, such as hammered satin, coats with “swagger,” especially military styles with raised waists, and variations on cowboy boots.

“The idea of really decorated clothes doesn’t appeal to us right now,” she noted.

Printemps’ Charbit said the “surprise” of Paris was that “some of the more marginal designers, such as Hussein Chalayan, were less intellectual and more commercial. There were superb collections: Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga, which was exceptional. Helmut Lang was also good,” she said.

Joan Burstein, owner of Browns in London, said she found the knitwear strong in Paris, as well as accessories such as brooches and narrow belts with adornment. Her top picks were Lanvin, which she described as “young and elegant,” along with Dries Van Noten, Junya Watanabe and Sonia Rykiel. “All of these collections were completely different, which is rather nice to have in Paris,” she said.

— With contributions from Emilie Marsh and Jennifer Weil
View Slideshow
Page:  « Previous
VIEW ARTICLE IN ONE PAGE
load comments

ADD A COMMENT

Sign in using your Facebook or Twitter account, or simply type your comment below as a guest by entering your email and name. Your email address will not be shared. Please note that WWD reserves the right to remove profane, distasteful or otherwise inappropriate language.

Ads by Google

Newsletters
Newsletters

Sign upSign up for WWD and FN newsletters to receive daily headlines, breaking news alerts and weekly industry wrap-ups.

Publications

ArticleFinder

Fashion


Choose By

Clear

How it works

Close

Lorem Ipsum
Dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Vivamus ac nibh et risus lobortis scelerisque tempor nec enim. Etiam facilisis sapien sit amet.

Lorem Ipsum
Dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Vivamus ac nibh et risus lobortis scelerisque tempor nec enim. Etiam facilisis sapien sit amet.

Lorem Ipsum
Dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Vivamus ac nibh et risus lobortis scelerisque tempor nec enim. Etiam facilisis sapien sit amet.

Lorem Ipsum
Dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Vivamus ac nibh et risus lobortis scelerisque tempor nec enim. Etiam facilisis sapien sit amet.

Lorem Ipsum
Dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Vivamus ac nibh et risus lobortis scelerisque tempor nec enim. Etiam facilisis sapien sit amet.


Or