Miuccia Prada, Marc Jacobs, JiIl Stuart and Anna Sui aren't the first to swoon over the crafty styles created by Emilie Floge, her longtime love Gustav Klimt and the members of the Wiener Werkstatte's fashion department nearly a century ago. But for spring, they translated the era's trademark bright colors and wild embroideries into a fresh, modern-day folkloric look. Here, a dress by Miu Miu.
The Thin Man
Karl Lagerfeld showed a slim silhouette on the Chanel runway in October -- and we don't mean his collection. Following a low-fat regime designed by Dr. Jean-Claude Houdret, Lagerfeld shed nearly 90 pounds in 11 months. He attributed his willpower to his desire to don the pencil-thin suits by Christian Dior men's designer Hedi Slimane. "It's all about the clothes," said Lagerfeld. Now, he and Houdret are writing a weight-loss book titled "3D," which is shorthand for a doctor, a designer and a diet.
An odd time for warrior chic, perhaps. But then, the spring collections were designed long before Sept. 11. While some designers reportedly made last-minute alterations to their lineups, others, such as Hussein Chalayan and Karl Lagerfeld for Fendi, showed collections that seemed to face the world head-on. Chalayan did artistic, post-apocalyptic looks -- featuring tattered, shredded chiffon (shown at right), while Karl Lagerfeld conjured up a "Mad Max" world with strong, warrior princesses at the helm. And many designers featured Mideastern themes, including Miguel Adrover, Jean Paul Gaultier and Gianfranco Ferre.
Talk about pale fire. White dominated the spring collections on both sides of the Atlantic. Some designers, most notably Ralph Lauren, Comme des Garcons, Rei Kawakubo and the Viktor & Rolf team, showed all-white collections. While looks ranged from romantic to utilitarian, the prevailing aura of lightness felt perfect in the oddest of seasons. Here, a look from Ralph Lauren.
A Kind of a Hush
After the events of Sept. 11, the fate of the Emmys was in limbo. Was it inappropriate to carry on with the show in the wake of tragedy? The producers struggled with the question and decided to go ahead, albeit with a revised script. After two postponements, the show took place on Nov. 4. The invitations requesting "Business Dressy" made for a drab affair, big on little black dresses. Among the exceptions: a quietly chic Calista Flockhart in an understated Christina Perrin peasant top and skirt.