‘Best Solution’ for PPR: Weinberg Stands Behind New Strategy for Gucci

With the expected announcement of Gucci Group’s successors to Tom Ford, PPR chief Serge Weinberg discussed the multidesigner strategy.

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Thursday’s announcements did not include Domenico De Sole’s replacement. Weinberg said only to expect an announcement before the expiration of the ceo’s contract at the end of April. He said that the search process was in an “advanced” stage and that the choice of candidates had been narrowed.

Weinberg underscored the significance of the future chief’s personality. “It’s not only about his talent or achievements, but he must have a personality that works with the group chemistry. This is not a traditional management position.”

Weinberg reiterated he does not intend to run Gucci’s daily business.

Gucci Group declined all comment on the duration of the designers’ contracts, and whether stock options were granted.

Facchinetti, design director of women’s rtw for the past four years, will become creative director of Gucci women’s wear. Ray, an eight-year veteran of the men’s wear department, was named creative director of men’s wear. Gucci said the pair will be responsible for the development of their respective collections, including seasonal runway shows in Milan, and ad campaigns, in tandem with Gucci’s internal image department.

Giannini, who joined Gucci two years ago as design director of leather goods, was named creative director of accessories, spanning leather goods, shoes, jewelry, gifts, timepieces and eyewear.

Gucci said Giannini would “support” Facchinetti and Ray to develop accessories for their respective runway collections and develop new accessory categories for the house. The trio of Gucci designers reports to Santucci.

As reported, Milan-born Pilati had a five-year career at Prada Group before joining YSL in March 2000. An internship at Cerruti while he was studying environmental design in Milan in the early Eighties cemented his interest in fashion. He would go on to work at an Italian velvet company before joining Armani in 1993 as a men’s wear assistant and Prada Group in 1995, initially in the fabric research and development department.

Meanwhile, it looks like Pilati’s appointment has received an early blessing from Yves Saint Laurent himself and former YSL couture boss Pierre Bergé, who were critical of Ford’s era at the house.

Bergé told WWD that François-Henri Pinault and Weinberg informed him and Yves Saint Laurent that Pilati would replace Ford.
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