While Esteban Cortazar’s debut at Emanuel Ungaro last season was a bit shaky, things are looking much better for spring. Cortazar seems to be easing into his role, and this collection was confident and focused as he injected a bit more of himself into the lineup. The inspirations, as show notes revealed, were his artist father, Valentino Cortazar, and “the magical realism of Cartagena,” which was reflected in a casual-cool Spanish resort vibe.

Cortazar delivered a bevy of steamy dresses — flirty, kicky numbers and body-tight goddess frocks — as well as billowing hippie-ish blouses and easy tailored fare, including capri trousers covered in arty doodles or a relaxed button-down with rolled-up sleeves. And there were bold pops of color to please any Ungaro devotee — sun golds, vibrant watercolor blues and splashy florals. The show wasn’t without its kinks — like the too-gimmicky palm frond-shaped ruffles and appliqués — but it was an outing that showed Cortazar’s got promise.