Elie Saab Couture Spring 2009

Taking a step away from his typical glamour-puss style, Elie Saab introduced a Japanese element to his couture, offering a kimono jacket here and an obi sash there. His proclivity for shimmering decoration also was scaled back, with subtle hues of jade and lilac underscoring his parade of gowns. Those worried that their red-carpet go-to guy had abandoned them, however, had no need for dismay. Saab offered plenty of Oscar-worthy gowns with brilliant sparkling embroidery to capture the light from a photographer’s flash. Standouts included the draped bustier gown with superimposed bands of tulle, the draped blue dress with a plunging neckline and the long dress of cascading ruffles. But the Japonaise numbers showed Saab is broadening his horizons beyond his habitual comfort zone — and succeeding.