Recession be darned, restraint hadn’t reared its pragmatic head this couture season until Tuesday afternoon, when it found an unlikely companion in Christian Lacroix. Certainly Lacroix has neither Dior- nor Chanel-scale resources behind him, but his tempered approach seemed rooted in something apart from, or in addition to, the economy. It made for a quizzical collection.

Lacroix titled his show “The Designs of her Nature,” and in his program notes listed such moods as mischievous, elated and poised. Certainly there were moments of the first two — while, as for poise, that goes without saying. But other catchwords proved more provocative: wavering, circumspect, caught.

The designer may or may not have been offering a window into his mind-set; either way, the show felt, by his standards, uncertain. Yes, there were some strong clothes, with the daywear among his most grounded ever — a trim, short navy suit with a flouncy sand-colored blouse; a military jacket over mannish, slouchy pants. And there were nods to joy in poufy polkadots and a charming navy balloon dress.

Evening provided a bigger puzzle. True, Lacroix showed some beautiful work — a deftly draped vermilion chiffon goddess gown; flamboyant bohemian layerings of painted gazar and chiffon — he doesn’t know how to make a bad dress. But, lovely though it was, his lineup was just dresses, lacking the sense of passion and otherworldliness that makes his best work transcend fashion and approach art.


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