Day 5 — Muffie and I say "Arrivederci, Roma." Leonard and Allison Stern spirit us off to Ostia, the ancient port’s newly renovated yachting marina. Sweltering heat behind, we sail for Ischia. Drinks on board. Caviar at eight. Dinner on deck with moonlit breeze. A little shriek in the a.m. when Georgette Mosbacher pulls open her porthole to see two fishermen staring as she covers her chest.
Day 6 — Oops, I slept ’til noon. Aston’s Armada: Muffie, Sherrell and Peter clutch dinghy for dear life as Leonard races à la Mario Andretti toward Ischia with difficulty. Discover vine-covered restaurant for lunch. We’re the only Americans! Quick swim. Stop at Sant’Angelo and cruise to Capri. First sight in plaza: Mario d’Urso! First time in years…Streets full of strolling young beauties — long hair, cell phones, Lycra jeans, jeweled sandals — Viva la Dolce Vita!





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