Venetian Affair

"Donatella will be happy," Stefano Pilati joked outside the Italian pavilion at the Biennale here.

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"It's always like that: party to party to party," mused Stephanie Seymour, dressed in body-hugging Alaïa, as was Naomi Campbell, who confessed, "I really don't know a lot about art. But it's been a laugh."

After the Pinault dinner, a flotilla of private boats whisked guests to a heaving Gucci-sponsored party for L'Uomo Vogue's art issue at François Pinault's Palazzo Grassi, where the likes of Campbell, Alberta Ferretti, Margherita Missoni, Maurizio Cattelan and Franca Sozzani grooved to Michel Gaubert's beats in the central atrium, dominated by a towering Christmas-tree-like sculpture by Swiss artist Urs Fischer aptly titled "Jet Set Lady."

By Saturday night, some art world heavies were already heading out of town for Art Basel, but the Venetian Heritage crew took up the slack with a black-tie charity ball at the Palazzo Pisani Moretta. Prince and Princess d'Arenberg, Trevor Traina, Princess Alexandra of Greece and Toto Bergamo Rossi, along with 400 other aristos and social stalwarts from all corners of Europe and North America, cavorted under the palazzo's Tiepolo frescoes. When Princess Michael of Kent swept in, wearing a pale blue Zandra Rhodes gown, she declared that in a week packed with countless parties and dinners, this one was unquestionably her favorite. "It raises the most money," she said. "That's what it's all about."
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