Over 150 waiters and 50 toque-hatted chefs served up lobster, lamb and délice au chocolat topped with white sugar camellias purveyed by Glorious Foods. The ever-glamorous Renée Fleming, in glittering black, sang gems by Gustav Mahler accompanied by Dimitri Hvorostovsky. Many music lovers in the room wished they’d gone on forever. All in all, the evening raised over $3 million for the Costume Institute. And really, dahlings, that’s what it’s all about, isn’t it?