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In the Zone

It's a fashion week ritual that editors and retailers descend on the same small circle of eateries.

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It's definitely no picnic winning over an Italian audience that favors traditional dishes to novel culinary twists — a fact Budel acknowledges. She's shocked to see how many mistakes chefs make, whether it's the repetition of an ingredient in the courses or appetizers with lingering aftertastes.

"You shouldn't be aggressive with tastes," she explains. "A meal should be a crescendo."
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